Dispatch from Cuba: A Close Look at a Paused Land Full of Hope

Puerto Esperanza: Recently, Emmy Award-winning photojournalist Richard Bickel wrapped up his 15th trip to Cuba. He noted that conditions were the worst he’d seen in 30 years.

In this small fishing village, Pablo Mesa, a 58-year-old fisherman, has been working hard. With no gasoline for his boat, he rows five miles out to sea. He’s tough and has that classic fisherman’s look. After a long night, he’s got a decent catch of grouper and snapper.

Pablo trades his fish for rice, loading it onto a horse cart to take home. In a place called Esperanza, which means “hope,” that’s about all that’s left for many people. The town is struggling, with most fishermen leaving for better opportunities elsewhere.

The streets are empty, and the homes are worn down from the sun. It feels like a ghost town. The road to Viñales Valley is rough, but the scenery is stunning. The mountains and fields are beautiful, untouched by modern development.

But life is tough for the farmers there. They rely on hard labor and oxen, as tractors are rare. Climate change has brought droughts and hurricanes, making farming even harder. Juan, a local farmer, welcomes visitors with a smile, but he’s cooking over an open fire due to another day without electricity.

His grandson, however, is full of life and joy, showing that even in tough times, love and family matter most. Nearby, Felix and Maria Quiñones are struggling too. Felix has heart failure but can’t get the medicine he needs. Their home was destroyed by Hurricane Ian, and they’re trying to rebuild with nothing.

At Motel La Ermita, tourists find a different kind of Cuba than they expected. The hotel is old and often without power. Guests are frustrated, but the staff tries to keep things running.

In Havana, a man named Joe lives in a rundown building. His roof has collapsed, and he’s dealing with the aftermath of recent hurricanes. He offers a drink, and despite the hardships, he keeps a positive outlook.

In tough times, many turn to religion for hope. Luisa, a Santería priestess, finds her community growing as people seek comfort. She offers prayers and guidance, showing that faith can be a source of strength.

Life in Cuba is a daily struggle, but the people face it with dignity and resilience. They continue to hope for better days ahead, leaning on each other and their beliefs to get through.